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O Gauge Monthly Photo Polls:

April 2019 Winner!

"Perishables Enroute to Market"
by member Balto&NY

Vote Now!    Photo Poll: May. 2019

Submit Now!     Photo Poll: Jun. 2019

Past Polls   Winner's Gallery

Most-Recent O Gauge Topics:

Topics: 77   Replies: 127
posted on May 13, 2019:

This imposing but modest Victorian 'mansion' is made of paper. Actually, satin finish photo paper. It's from a booklet for cutting out and assembling an HO scale "Victorian Cottage." I copied the pages in O scale and also reworked some of the parts in a photo program to create the port-cochere at the front steps. For a 'cottage,' it had an impressive foot print, with steps to a back kitchen door and a back porch with a door. The tower-like chimney gives it a majestic presence. This paper structure with the drive and cars became 'Tower Hill' on my layout, set in a corner overlooking a curve on the mainline. Just a bit of paper work!
Paper Work!
Topics: 47   Replies: 65
posted on May 7, 2019:

I picked up this brass snowplow that needs a little TLC.

The cupola on this model is soldered to the top of the snowplow with just the flat roof showing in the cab area.

I want to add detail to the cab area so the first thing to do was to remove the cupola and the roof section.

I put the roof section up on the mill and cut out the area for the cab.

I also had to cut out that area in the snowplow.

Then I cut out a piece of sheet brass to make the cab area out of.

The sides are bent up on this piece to to make the floor and sides of the cab.

The high end of the plow extends into the area of the cab.

So the front corners of the cab floor had to be cut back and a pie shaped piece of brass is soldered into the corners.
The floor section is then soldered into the hole in the roof section.

Instead of soldering the cupola back onto the roof section, I soldered two tabs inside it that have a threaded hole in them.
Then I drilled two holes in the roof section so the cupola can now be fasten to the top of the roof section with two small screws.

Controls and gauges are added to the cab area.

Two seats are also added to the cab area.

This is how the new cab area looks when assembled.

The model is cleaned up with trucks and couplers added.

Topics: 77   Replies: 127
posted on Apr 29, 2019:

A Pennsylvania 2-8-2 stands at the engine shop lead for servicing, after delivering a string of refrigerator cars to Edgewater Yard.
Overhead, a B&O RDC is on its way to Tower Hill. n the background, a B&O train departs Edgewater Station heading west.
The locomotive belongs to a visitor taking part in an operating session.

After the Run
Richard E
Topics: 75   Replies: 34
posted on Apr 26, 2019:

A D & H RS-11 & RS-3 heading north. The D & H was exclusively ALCO until Alco quit building locomotives.
D & H Alcos
Richard E
Topics: 75   Replies: 34
posted on Mar 15, 2019:

Reporting for work at the Lincoln Park roundhouse
Lincoln Park Roundhouse
Topics: 47   Replies: 65
posted on Mar 13, 2019:

I've had this old beat-up, O-scale tender laying around for awhile and I decided to finally see if I could do something with it.

The old paint has already been stripped off and this is what I'm left with.

There is a lot of solder showing where the top of the fuel tank was mounted.

There is also a lot of solder and scratch marks on the back of the tender.

I've decided that the top panel of the tender needs to be replaced so I un-soldered all the the pieces of the tender.

I cleaned and polished the two side panels and made a new top panel from a piece of thin sheet brass.

The pieces are then soldered back together.

A piece of rectangle tube is soldered to the inside of each side panel to stiffen them.
The top of the tender is fastened to the frame with a single screw in the center so I made up a center brace with a threaded hole to attach it to the frame.

This is how it looks so far.

Instead of soldering the top of the fuel tank back on, I soldered two pieces of scrap copper inside it and drilled and threaded a hole in each piece so it can be fastened to the tender with two screws.

I'm drilling small holes in the mounting brackets for the tool box and the rear light.

I drilled holes in the back of the tender and used small brass nails to mount the toolbox and the light.

The brass nails are then soldered on the inside so there is much less chance of having excess solder showing on the outside.

Originally, the opening for filling the water tank was the same size as the fill tube for the fuel tank.
I have a correct size water hatch cover but it is just a thin casting that sits on top of a flat surface so I need to make an extension for it.

I cut out a piece of thick brass to make the extension out of.

The sides are rounded to match the shape of the water hatch cover.

Then the bottom of the extension is milled off at an angle to match the slope on the back of the tender.
The extended water hatch is fastened to the back of the tender with two screws.

The hand rail stanchions are mounted on the side and the railing is put on.

Here is the finished tender.

Salvaging a brass slopeback tender
Topics: 77   Replies: 127
posted on Mar 8, 2019:

Perishables were fruits and vegetables shipped in iced refrigerator cars. Many such cars ran coast to coast, handled as priority freight at near passenger schedule speeds. In this scene, a freshly shopped PRR 2-8-2 (a visitor's loco) rolls toward Bay Bridge on the Baltimore & New York with a train of refrigerator cars.

OK, I put in a photo for April. Who else will join me?
Perishables Enroute to Market

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   Please Read This First
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O Gauge Member Blogs:

Balto&NY  (75) jdcrawler  (37)
Richard E  (69) PC9850  (8)
Jack Hess  (6) leavingtracks  (10)
Andrew Foster  (1) Stu Gralnik  (9)
JohnBoy  (12) Frank53  (12)
TRAINS4U2C2  (31) Hugh Laubis  (31)
Mr Milepost 12  (24) ChiloquinRuss  (10)

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