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(Guest)   JCS Archive   True Scene Modeling Fibre   Three Bridges Module
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Three Bridges Module
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Aug 26, 2011: 
One of my friends asked me to redo a module for the club layout. It is a high rail module belonging to the FCTT (flower City Tinplate trackers).

Here is a shot of before showing the one grider bridge. There are two Pratt style bridges (not shown-ATlas and MTH). Also this module has another triangular back section, that continues the river and has the third bridge.





Removed the old base... and used foam and heavy cardboard to make outline. the foam was attached to base with carpenters glue. The cardboard was attached with hot glue gun. Adhesive drywall mesh was used to fill gaps and cover exposed smooth foam.

The river attempt (still a beginner here) is to get the late summer green-light blue effect (not quite right in this photos). Used createx transparent leaf green and a blue over the old base. The two water falls are silcone caulk and are shown after first go over. The back waterfall is the seam for the second module, so it has a base of dry modeling fibre for support. Once dry the base side that sits on the other module is coated with silcone caultk and allowed to dry. This gives the seam some flexibility for handling purposes





Here is an up close of the front western section. note the adhesive tape on the old wood abutement. This had an very smooth finish so to make fiber stick this is added. Plan to make a casted abutement , but in mean time will create a temporary one with fiber.





for the eastern look, upstate NY, the colorado clay was tinted with charcoal tinting powder from Scenic Express. 1 teaspoon per two quarts of water and applied to the scene. Also did 4 90ml pours of magic water tinted with testors ghost grey. 3 drops per pour.

Wet fiber day 1




the highlights in the water are from silcone clear caulk to which iridescent white was dry brushed. Will be adding more caulk to waterfall



http://www.truescene.com/
 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Aug 26, 2011: 
Day two...
the fiber is still wet , so I took the opportunity to shape it with putty and a palatte knife. Made a fishermans trail...I mean every bridge with a large river seems to have one. And this is a good location, just below the falls. Once that was done I used a very wet brush to stipple on a grey wash (~60/40, wet water/paint). Added some ground cover where the trail is located and misted with wet water

Just as a note, there is no scenic cement, matt medium necessary for adding any of the scenery shown going forward. When adding ground covers sprinkle on lightly and don't try to get complete coverage. You can come back later and add a different texture, or color, or leave it bare. Add the larger stuff first. This gives better adhesion. In photo some of the larger stones were pressed into the wet fiber. Because glue is not used you can mist the area and the ground covers on the stones will simply run off next to stones.





the blue foam area is going to be cover
 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Aug 26, 2011: 
Day 3 : additional ground covers. I have chosen to use some of the silfor products, heki wildgrass and the synthetic pasture blend from scenic express. these all seem to be more dust resistant when used with fiber as there is no residual glue to soften, or grey on the surfaces of the ground covers when used this way. they were added to surface misted with wet water and pressed lightly into fiber. Also use the fine natural dirt for highlights





other abutement area: a foam or cast abutement , up to owner, will replace the fiber one. Wet the fiber where casting is going to go, set into fiber and allow to dry.





other views








At this point adding color to rocks by washes, or waiting until dry and using powders is possible. this module I am told will be shown at the CNY-NHRS Train Show in Syracuse November 5-6.
 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Sep 1, 2011: 
The river being the same width at the back didn't look right. I cut a triangle piece of cardboard, glued it to water and side of hill with hot glue gun and covered it with fiber. The front seam where it touches the water was caulked with clear silicone caulk.





A palette knife was used to shape some boulders as before
Next came the grey wash followed by fine covers (compared to foreground) and another wash of a translucent maize (from scrap lowes bin).





Here is the shape of the backdrop section.




Three major things remain. Finish painting sky and "green" hillside, fixing seam in top waterfall and smoothing out the resin pour that was lite and ended up a bit pitted and if lucky get it looking like its flowing.

The top waterfall seam




almost done look





 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Sep 8, 2011: 
cleaned up the seam a bit and added some white to the water falls. The upper right on the module needs to change to make seam less visible.
All the precast abutements seem to short. Have to keep searching.









In photo above the right side in back doesn't hide the seam very well.. So I use a 3 inch putty knife on back side and peeled it up, added some foam white glue and filled in with fiber. The dry top with the ground cover is pressed into the wet fiber and allowed to dry.





this effectively steepens the hillside without changing the ground covers on surface.



http://www.truescene.com/


Bill D
 
JohnBoy
Joined: May 14, 2008
Topics: 110 Replies: 517 Topics: 110
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posted Sep 9, 2011: 
Really nice results Bill!
 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Sep 10, 2011: 
Thanks, you going to York this october?
 
JohnBoy
Joined: May 14, 2008
Topics: 110 Replies: 517 Topics: 110
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posted Sep 10, 2011: 
Regrettably, no.

You?

John
 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Sep 10, 2011: 
we have booth in orange hall
 
redshift
Joined: Aug 7, 2011
Topics: 3 Replies: 19 Topics: 3
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posted Sep 13, 2011: 
Greetings
Is there anyway I can print this whole post?

Thank you
 
JohnBoy
Joined: May 14, 2008
Topics: 110 Replies: 517 Topics: 110
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posted Sep 14, 2011: 
Sure - there should be an option in your browser (which one are you using?) to print it. Try the "Print Preview" option first, just to get a sense for what it's going to look like.

It might be helpful to turn off "Print Background (Colors & Images)", to conserve ink and make it print faster.

John
 
redshift
Joined: Aug 7, 2011
Topics: 3 Replies: 19 Topics: 3
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posted Sep 14, 2011: 
Ok Thanks John,I must be going nuts,it was in the File pulldown menu thanks again.
 
wsdimenna
Joined: Oct 28, 2008
Topics: 17 Replies: 61 Topics: 17
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posted Sep 20, 2011: 
Finish line

Three things were done. The (plaster castings) stone walls, the seam on falls (almost got it) and the extension of hillside in foreground to make it less regular.

To fix the seam on upper falls that connects modules, it was turned over and pressed against a sheet of luan. Red devil silcone caulk was added. The idea was to help the shape but still be flexible. A dry modeling fiber module is very light weight and will not chip or crack even when bumped.

Made one mistake with a glob of caulk in center..oh well




Originally I was going to use MDF as retaining wall (flexible), but decided on stone plaster castings. After cutting to size, these were set into the modeling fiber applied vertically and as base for casting.





the fiber while wet was painted with a grey wash and ground covers added. the extra pat in foreground was done like the extra piece in back with cardboard, glue gun and then fiber. Since water already down no silcone caulk was used along edge.

Except for the end of the stone wall on right and abutments for girder bridge its ready to go.





Hope this was helpful for doing lightweight durable scenery without scenic cement and avoiding resin creep on water scenes


http://www.truescene.com/

Bill D
 

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