This is one of my "Brain Children" still in the very infant stages of design.
* It's in very rough form and crude at the moment, It's just put together with scrap lumber to see if the idea has any possibilites.
The purpose is to try and create a transfer table to work on the vertical plane where floor space is at a premium.
This could be used where different levels of track are on outside walls. It could be used to move one, two or three cars at a time from level to level.
My plan is to use inexpensive materials without using expensive step motors.
For a gear box I'm using a lower unit from a small outboard engine. The local outboard repair shop gave one to me.
Rotating the lower unit 90 deg. with the propeller shaft facing up. I used a 5/8" threaded rod and coupling nut. I drilled two holes through the nut and both shafts so I could insert cotter pins to keep it from coming loose while spinning.
I then had two coupling nuts welded to a "L" bracket. *note* The heat from the welding distorted the threads, so I had to run a tap through the coupling nuts so they would move up and down the threaded rod smoothly.
Please keep in mind that this is in very crude form, just put together with scrap lumber to see if it would work ]
For the moving table I used a 1 x 8" and attached it to the L-bracket on the vertical plane and another 1 x 6" on the horizontal plane. I routed a groove about 1/4" deep the width of the L-bracket on each board, This helped to lock it into place and make it more stable.
Next to get it moving ;
I attached a window crank to the main shaft. This required about 16 turns to raise the table one inch.
I installed a parallel shaft with a large pulley and connected it with a V-belt. This really speeded up the raise and lowering.
The cranks were still a little hard to turn due to the friction between the shafts and raw wood. So I drilled larger holes and inserted bronze bushing and a little greese, that really helped.
The moving table seem to have a lot of sway from side to side ( Clockwise and Counter clockwise ) durning raising and lowering. I needed some way to stableize this, so using a T-nut and 1/4" bolt on each side I was able to create an adjustable stableizer.